Installing windows and doors the right way
This is a properly installed window. The first layer of flashing tape goes on the wood sill and laps under the bottom flange of the window. The window flanges are caulked on 3 sides, not the bottom flange. Flanges are screwed to the wall on all 4 sides. Flashing tape on the sides and top, not the bottom. Top tape is tucked behind the drain wrap and all cuts in the house wrap are taped closed. Each piece of this assembly is lapped downward so any potential water intrusion flows down and continuously outward to the outside of the secondary rain barrier instead of being trapped in the wall and causing the wood rot to rot out.
This is the WRONG way to seal and flash windows. I see this all the time. Taped all 4 sides, not lapped under the house wrap, flex tape not used on the round window. Any potential water intrusion around or above the windows will likely be trapped and promote wood rot. The manufacturer will not warranty this installation because it does not follow the instructions.
This is why impact glass windows are so important. This window is on the second floor of a beach house where putting up storm shutters would be difficult. A piece of debris hit this wall so hard during hurricane Ivan that it cracked two 2×6 wall studs and shattered the window. The window held and no internal damage occurred.
Attempted break-in thwarted by impact glass. The brick broke the outer pane but bounced off the inner pane which has a protective film layer designed to stop wind born debris from breaching the window during hurricanes. Works great against burglars, too.
Impact glass windows: The lazy man's storm panels.
Steve pouring leveling compound under a sliding glass door threshold to create a perfectly level bed for the threshold track.
Steve troweling smooth the leveling compound.
Steve sealing around the door threshold area leading out onto the deck. This is a high risk area for leakage in high wind born rain.
Elevated decks are a vulnerable place on any building, particularly at the wall joints. Darin is applying a rubberized coating to cloth flashing tape which goes up the wall and behind the drain wrap. This is where you have to slow down and do it right otherwise there will be water intrusion, extensive damage, and expensive repairs down the road.
Darin rolls on a rubberized deck coating to seal the deck. Note how the flashing system rolls into the doorway before the door is installed.
Darin trowels on the coraflex wear coating. After that he will apply a light textrued surface then 2 clear coats of sealer. This deck coating is flexible, water tight, and will provide years of trouble free service.
This is called a kick-out. It prevents water from getting behind the
stucco and rotting out the wall where the facia abuts a wall. This is a
very common omission and typically results in a rotted out wall which
will go unnoticed for several years.
This is what happens when you don't have kick-out flashing installed
properly. Water gets in behind the siding and starts to rot out the
wood sheathing and studs and attracts termites. The damage fans out as
the water travels down the wall. Normally this type of slow progressive
water intrusion is not detected for several years until there is a
substantial amount of damage.